RATtreks

Devils Creek Part 2 : 02-06-2011

The next trip to the Devils Creek watershed area would come on Sunday, 2-6-2011 on a nice sunny day with believe it or not, no snow ! This time we would start at Unaka Springs near Chestoa and follow the railroad tracks into the Nolichucky River Gorge towards North Carolina. DISCLAIMER: Walking railroad tracks is dangerous and against federal law so do this at your own risk !!!   I have so many memories of numerous trips to this area but it has been at least 20 years since I was here last. Not much has changed really, walking the tracks is still dangerous and basically unpleasant other than the incredible views of the river, parts of Unaka, Flattop, and the other mountains that line the steep sides of the river gorge.You can make pretty good time walking the more or less level tracks, perhaps it’s the adrenaline caused from thinking about approaching trains that puts a spring in ones step here ? We were very lucky on our trip in to the gorge as we did not encounter a single train however, this would be made up for on the way out later that evening ! The ducks were out enjoying the morning as were a family group we met coming out. We stopped at one of our favorite old break spots where there is a large rock formation (this pic was taken on our way out) on the river side and where the steep rock sides begin along the tracks just before the sharp blind curve that has to be negotiated before the long straightaway that leads to the NC/TN state line which is where the Devils Creek enters the river. It did not take long at all to hike that 2+ miles and we could soon see the old iron bridge and the sheer rock, cliff-like sides of the entrance to the narrow Devils Creek Valley.

Nolichucky River Gorge

Upper Devils Creek Falls

I am always glad to reach this destination not only to be off the tracks but mainly because this is such an awesome place where you can see at least four nice waterfalls and cascades from the bridge which continue one after another, each becoming more awesome including their own deep swimming pools as you continue up the creek. We stopped at the bridge to take in the first of the three small waterfalls there and then beyond those to the one above with a long slide-like chute that comes into a deep pool at the bottom. The water was gushing and jumping high in the air in places which was exciting to watch for a waterfall lover. The sun was way too bright for any good pics but it was sure awesome to be there taking in the high water levels and beauty that this somewhat inaccessible area has to offer. In order to enjoy the multiple waterfalls to the fullest extent, one has to make his way up the right side of the creek passing them one at a time until you reach a more or less impassable spot where the big, flat ‘table-rock‘ is. This is a very cool spot to spend some time and get some good shots of the waterfall just above it and to check out the area below and around its base. The creek makes a big curve around this rock.

You then have to backtrack some to find the faint trail that is located up above you, that leads further into this very narrow and steep valley.  Almost instantly, both sides become rocky with vertical cliffs facing each other at opposite angles. Considerable elevation is gained very quickly and you are soon looking down on the ‘table rock‘ and falls along with many others even larger and more awesome as they stair-step one after another further up the valley as far as one can see. Quickly realizing that in order to get up close and personal with each set of falls and also to get any good photos, we had to climb down the steep, rocky slope back to the creek at the bottom ! This was tedious but we accomplished the task quickly and safely and soon was standing at the top of the ‘table-rock’ falls.

Falls at the 'table rock'

Falls along Devils Creek

We took our time savoring and enjoying each set of falls and multiple cascades as we slowly made our way, rock hopping up the creek towards the largest set of double falls which we were looking very forward to seeing. Each set of falls has its own unique features and we thoroughly enjoyed them all. I can’t think of anywhere else that has this many falls in one place. We did come across a section of narrow gauge rail track that was bent and buried in the rocks beside the creek which tells us that there may have been a set of tracks laid through there years ago to transport the logs out to the main tracks in the gorge. After reaching the bottom of the lower set of the largest ‘double falls’ we had to return back up to the trail in order to get to the top of the upper falls as there is no climbing those. This makes me wonder if it is at all possible to swim in the deep pool in between the two. The sides of this valley become extremely steep and sheer rock cliffs on each side facing each other as if they are guardians, watching over anyone who passes between them.  We made our way up the trail across one section that was damaged with some downed laurels and the tread-way had broken away down the steep hill towards the lower falls.  For some reason, coming back seemed more difficult and there was actually a tiny patch of snow sitting right by the trail here ! There is a really nice place to hang out right on top of the falls where you can walk right out on them.  Prior to doing that we found other cool places just before it where you can get good views looking down on the lower set and the pool between the two where we had some photo ops before going on to the actual top. Once you reach the top you will find another set of smaller falls just above them and a fast flowing chute of water connecting the two. Looking further up the valley beyond these, there is another series of small falls and cascades.  They may seem of lesser importance, but like the ones below, they each have their own uniqueness about them and the last one was very cool with a long slanting slide of water into another nice pool with a small part splitting off to the side emptying in to the same pool making a nice miniature falls.  I enjoyed photographing each and every one of them. It seemed the water wonders would never end but we were out of time to continue any farther and from our past experience of hiking further into this valley some 20+ years ago, there are not any more significant falls above these.

Falls along Devils Creek

Lower half of Upper Devils Creek Falls

We spent as much time here as we could before the sun started dropping, telling us it was time to begin the journey back down to the river and out the gorge to where we started. The light had changed some but still remained too bright for quality photo’s yet we took several more on our way out. Looking out towards the top of the upper falls shows just how rugged, rocky and steep this valley is.

Upper Devils Creek Falls

Falls and cascades along Devils Creek

Looking down on some of the falls and cascades in Devils Creek

It did not take  very long to negotiate our way back through the gorge, (on the trail this time), back down to the trestle bridge and to the tracks stopping only for a snack break just before the last descent. Taking one last look at the falls where we started, we stepped out on to the tracks.  The sun was shining on Flattop Mountain above Lost Cove as we looked back that way before beginning the 2 mile journey back to our vehicle.  The jagged rocks that line the ridge tops in the Devils Creek Valley, continue above you as if they are still watching over you as you make your way down that part of the tracks. We had to have one last look back before we made it to the blind curve. The rocky cliff tops continue all the way down this long ridge above the rails. It was not long before we encountered our first train. It happened at a place where the upper side is nothing but sheer rock cliffs so we had no choice but to slide down the steep, loose, rock covered, lower side to the edge of the river to wait for it to pass. It is a bit unnerving to say the least, not just because they come upon you so fast without much warning around the blind curves but, also the fear of one derailing on top of you while you sit beside huge pieces of train axles, wheels, etc. and wondering just how they got there !

Train passing

Train passing

The train was gone almost as quickly as it came and we climbed out of our so called ‘safe place’ back to the tracks and continued further out the river gorge.  We did see a strange phenomena in the sky that started over the Unaka Mountains and took a strange flight path around and disappeared over Flattop Mountain. It was a bright object low in the sky, glowing in the bright sunlight and just did not look like any normal aircraft of sorts, so we deemed it a UFO. I did take a few pics and it wasn’t until later when I looked at one of the zoomed ones that I realized it was actually an airplane! That was hard to believe after the way it appeared to us in the gorge.

It wasn’t long at all before we heard the next train and this time we decided to climb up the bank into the woods above to wait this one out. No longer than we found our perch and sat down the train came clacking by. Some of the cars make really loud banging noises from the wheels, and sound as if they could just come apart at any minute.  I remember my last trek through here many years ago on a trip to Lost Cove, they were replacing the cross ties under the rails. That was a very interesting process with some unique machines and now those ties are 20 years older ! From our vantage point on the hillside we could see the last bit of sun setting over Flattop Mountain and could now see some patches of snow that still remained on the North slope.

Second train passing

Second train passing

After another mile or so of hiking the tracks and checking out the rock formations along both sides of the river,  we reached the turn off at Unaka Springs and headed up the hill back to the vehicle as it was just about dark and the moon was already up. Although we did not make it all the way to the point where we left off on our first trip the week before, it had been a grand day of hiking and waterfall adventures and I am looking forward to coming back to this place very soon and next time will share it with some fellow waterfall and extreme adventure lovers.

Sun setting on Flattop Mtn. and patches of snow above Lost Cove

To see these pics and more, please visit the photo gallery.