RATtreks

Simmons Branch Falls – 12-26-2015

The access to the trail head for these falls was blocked off a few years ago by a landowner who owns property adjacent to them. He does NOT own the land where the falls are as that is all on US Forest Service property however, the USFS road that leads into the area does cross a very small section of his land. That road was discontinued many years ago by the Forest Service after a new road was built and was only opened for hunting season which was also stopped a few years ago as well. Of course the government has an easement there and will always be allowed to access it over the private property yet, the general public is not so lucky which has somehow permitted the landowner to block all access to it. I have heard first hand reports of him coming out with gun in hand and impolitely forcing people to leave and only one instance of someone being allowed to park there and access the route to the falls. Although that type of behavior is uncalled for, I can understand his frustration as in recent years there has been so much popularity in waterfalls spread by social media, and websites listing all the known falls and their map coordinates, etc., that masses of people were parking on his land at the USFS gate which resulted in mud holes and lots of trash being thrown out there. So, rather than attempt to speak with him to hopefully get access (which I was told would be futile) I opted a few years ago to find another route to the falls that did not require crossing any private property. After researching property ownership maps I was able to locate the perfect route to the falls that was not much longer or more difficult. Having hunted and explored all over the area there for many years when I was younger aided in my being able to find the perfect route to take. I have been a few times since then and it seems a small handful of others have also been traveling this route as well. It goes over state owned property which connects to the USFS land and apparently there have been issues as I noticed on this trip they have put up bright yellow property boundary markers to clearly show where state property stops and the private property begins which is a good sign as I take it to mean the state does not mind hiking over their property. I hope no one does anything to cause them to block that off because any other way in to the area would require a MUCH longer hike, so long in fact that it may not even be possible for many to accomplish on a day hike.

It was only a few months ago that my good friend and fellow mountaineer Larry Jarret aka The Roan Mountain Jedi, had informed me that he had been rudely ran off from there by the landowner and asked me about my newly found route to get around it to reach the falls. I promised him that I would show him the way as soon as it was possible. There is not usually a lot of water flowing down the Simmons Branch so it is imperative to wait until after some rains or during wet seasons to even bother going there. Larry also informed me that these waterfalls were the only ones he lacked seeing to complete his seeing all the listed waterfalls between Scott County, TN. and the Smoky Mtns. to the Virgina and North Carolina state lines. This of course is quite an accomplishment and I was eager to help him check this last set of falls off the list. It was not until a couple months later that the conditions would be sufficient enough to warrant this trip as we did get some soaking rains and the forecast was for a fairly cloudy day. I notified Larry and he was all for it so on the day after Christmas he, and myself met up at Hairnt Quarters that morning and took one vehicle to my new trail head where we met up with Bol’Dar to begin our journey to the Simmons Branch Falls.

Moving quickly into stealth mode being quiet and with purpose we made our way over the steep hill keeping just above the private property line and down into the valley where we would pick up a shortcut down to the old road well above the danger zone. From there we would avoid the lower route although I am sure it is not on private land as I know a much better route that would take us to the top of the lower falls. It is tricky due to a maze of old overgrown trails and log roads but, it is much easier if you know the right turns, and there are many. In no time we were standing above the lower falls about to descend down and around the vertical rock cliffs there. Following my old ninja trail we made it safely to the base of the falls. The water level was higher than I had ever seen it and it was cloudy enough to get some usable pics.

There was actually too much water for me to get any really good delayed shots with my larger camera as I simply do not have the right equipment or talent to do so but, the following shots are what I was able to obtain:

We were in no hurry as it is not a long hike so we spent as much time as we needed there before deciding to climb back up by the cliff. I noticed that the feeder falls that come in from the left of the base of the lower falls on a different water source was roaring and I enticed the others to follow me over there to poke our noses into the thick laurels to see what they had to show. It is rare that there is much water on them but, this day would be an exception as they were rocking and rolling hard ! I have never seen any good pictures of them (other than the one on TN Landforms site)  and I am happy we took the time to check them out. The conditions were as near perfect as they could get and we took our time getting up close and personal with her as we climbed every square inch of them getting some of the best shots of the day ! These are a rare and highly unique falls that provides numerous angles and opportunities for many different shots which we took full advantage of as we climbed to the top and then higher, back to where we started above the lower falls.

From there it is down to the creek again to follow the Simmons Branch Valley until the middle falls are reached. These are hidden until you actually get right upon them. It is said that Cherokee Indian maidens frequented these falls for bathing purposes as it is possible to easily sit on each of its three tiers. I have yet to get a good picture without bright sun of these falls until this trip. We had picked a great day to visit them.

I did not climb directly up the falls and shoot each level as closely as I usually do, mainly in part to the high water flow but, instead I climbed up the steep right side to reach the nice log road that hides above it. This road leads towards the upper falls but, dead ends in the creek before reaching them. It is a very steep and difficult climb up the left side to reach the only viewing perch of the falls. There are some nice drops below the upper falls but, I would wait until we left to photograph them on our way out. I think I slid backwards as much as I was able to climb forward but, I finally reached the old log where the best view of the upper falls lies. I had to rest awhile before I could even begin shooting pics !

The upper falls are very tall at over 100 feet easily if you include a small drop at the top that you cant really see unless you climb up there. It is not an easy climb and this would be the first time I visited these falls that I did not make the climb up. Larry opted to not climb to the top as well and we watched as Bol’Dar climbed about half way up to give us some scale for a few of our pics. We hung out there for quite some time taking advantage of the cloudy conditions and high water flow. Eventually it did become time to go so we made our way slowly down the very slick descent to the creek where we could get some shots of the smaller falls that are found there.

Bol’Dar did climb a good ways upon them to get some close up pics of the various sections of the falls. Of course I took pics of him doing so to add some scale as to the height of the falls which I will include here for your viewing pleasure:

At one of the drops below the upper falls we found a dead raccoon laying right beside the falls. One has to wonder what led to his demise and why there but, it is a perfect example of why you should never drink unfiltered / untreated water no matter where you are as there is no way of knowing what might be in the stream above you.

Further down there is another nice small drop that photographs well. I spent some time there getting what I could before catching up with the others that were farther downstream already.

Taking the old log road all the way back out as it passes high above the middle falls not only makes it easier and quicker but, also gives a different perspective on the middle falls. I enjoy all views of these as they are very spectacular.

We had plenty of daylight left so we took our time enjoying the hike out to the old road where we had plans of showing Larry the ‘bonus falls’ which hide over on what is known as the South Branch of Simmons Creek. We found them and made the steep descent down to reach the base where they are hidden in a deep grotto of rock and thick laurels. Small but most awesome I think Larry was as impressed with these as he was with all the others we had seen on this day. We spent a significant amount of time there soaking in all the beauty before making the challenging climb back up to the old road.

Once back down the old road there would still be one more hill to get over before skirting back above the private property and down to the vehicles so,  it was back into stealth mode for that. What an incredible day it had been with excellent conditions at all five waterfalls. We also celebrated Larry`s achievement of having now seen all listed waterfalls between Scott County TN, including the Great Smoky Mountains, and to the NC/Va state lines. It had been a very successful and special day in Nature. I was glad I could be a part of helping it come to fruition for him and I am already looking forward to the next adventure. Until then,,,,,,