The Great Channels of Virginia – 11-10-2016
You know it is a very special and significant destination when the ‘Roan Mountain Jedi’ Larry Jarret agrees to leave the great state of Tennessee to see it ! This trip was definitely a special occasion as we would be visiting the Great Channels of Virginia. Having been there a few times before, I place it on my list of ‘must see before you die’ as it really is a local wonder of the world. I mean, where else can you see sandstone rocks that are over 400 million years old carved out by ice ! On this trip would also be John Forbes who has explored this area extensively more times than anyone I have ever heard of. There would also be another first timer with us, my son, Tyler Tarpley. It was a bright, sunny Fall morning with warm temps and after a short delay (as Gnomes must have their breakfast and espresso) the Camel Servicer`s Union would find ourselves at a nice local waterfall that was along the way.
Group shot from within the Great Channels of Virginia (top to bottom = John Forbes, Tyler Tarpley, Randy Tarpley, and Larry Jarret)
Getting an early start is prudent.
Heaven let your light shine down !
Lower part of Logan Falls
Logan Falls
Cliff beside Logan Falls
Splash pool and lower part of Logan Falls
John ‘gnoming’ at the top of Logan Falls
After the waterfall we would soon be at the trail head and heading up the mountain. The first stop would be at the old cabin where as history dictates is where a former caretaker lived a long time ago. It has some very old and interesting features. I am sure if it could talk we would have been there for much longer ! Once we got much higher on the mountain I noticed a rather large, vertical rock face that I caught a glimpse of through the dense trees and laurels. Needing a rest anyway, I climbed up to it and to my amazement found a whole other world hidden there. Of course I summoned the others and we began an extensive sweep of the area. This would pay off immensely as we not only discovered a lot of really large , vertical cliffs and rock towers to play on but, also a superb crack to climb up which also hid a special treat being a nice cave room located deep within its belly.
One of the first things you see along the trail is this rock. Some call it a heart rock but, I call it a butt rock for obvious reasons !
The old caretakers cabin.
Front porch of the cabin
Sexy a$$ tree along the trail !
Checking out some colors on top of the big hill we would eventually be on top of.
The huge ‘Stingray Rock’ that guards the entrance to the cave room
Looking higher up the crack above the stingray rock you can see some potential headache rocks looming
Some very tall and interesting rocks were found here
“Are you lookin` at my bum ? ” John utilizing the stingray rock as he climbs up the crack.
John sits atop the mighty stingray rock in this newfound crack (Photo by Larry Jarret)
In case you did not think the stingray rock was very big in the other pics, here you can see its size as john begins his squeeze by it to access the cave room it guards
One inch at a time John makes his way past the stingray rock to gain access to what it and the crack is hiding.
It was as if john was being slowly eaten by this rock creature.
Once John was inside, I somehow squeezed my fat behind through the small opening to join him. Here John is continuing deeper into the crack
John in the back of crack in the small cave room. There were some bone looking rock formations back there.
John`s view of me from his position in the back of the crack cave. He had to use a flash to make this possible. (Photo by John Forbes)
Rock formations at the back of the crack cave. (using a flash) (Photo by John Forbes)
This rock tower is huge and sits just downhill from the cliffs we found
Table top of the huge rock tower that sits just downhill from the cliffs we found
Tyler and I climbed around the base to see if we could get on top of the cliffs but, there was always an obstacle that would have to be climbed to make that possible. Here Tyler investigates a shorter crack to see if could be safely climbed without ropes.
Literally ‘tons’ of overhanging rocks blocking the way for the average climber
This one rock would weigh several tons !
Tyler could have pulled himself up through the laurel trees and got on top but, we didn`t really have the time to spend on it.
John took his turn at climbing this new crack
Looking up this cliff at the overhanging rock on top, it reminded me of a larger version of Sitting Bear rock.
Taking a break at the base of the cliff wall near the stingray rock crack
After the long exploratory break at the new cliffs the journey was back in action as we completed the steep climb up to the top and got our first sight of the old fire tower that sits on top of the Channels. It was a clear day so the views were abounding. We would take a quick shortcut over to what John and I call the ‘Hidden Channels’ which are a smaller version located in an inconspicuous area reached by a short side trail through some laurel bushes found before you reach the tower where the approach trail ends. Most folks that do venture out here walk on the tops of these and do not climb down into the more narrow cracks found there. That is their loss as there is an entire subterranean world that lies below that John and I had found on previous trips here. After a short time here we would continue on to the tower.
Neat rock formations along the trail
Tyler checks out some of the many cool rock formations found along the trail
Tyler marvels at some of the dinosaur fossil looking rock formations found along the way
So many of the rocks here resemble dinosaur fossils !!
First view of the old fire tower
John gnomin` atop a part of the ‘hidden channels’
Tyler checking out an entrance to some of the lower levels of the hidden channels
Looking down on Tyler who is taking a break at one of the entrances to the lower world of the hidden channels
Tyler and Larry atop part of the hidden channels
Larry getting some pics from atop the Hidden Channels (Photo by John Forbes)
Three amigos on top of the Hidden Channels (left to right: Larry, Tyler, RAT) (Photo by John Forbes)
Gnome posing on top of the Hidden Channels. Tyler in the background. (Photo by John Forbes)
Just behind the tower is a large crack that is too wide to step or easily jump over and our Gnome friend John is notorious for flying across it. This trip would be no exception and we even had Tyler doing it as well. As I was photographing this traditional event Tyler and I noticed there was more to the crack than I had seen before and located a way that we might be able to get down into it. After bringing this to John`s attention, we decided that we would definitely be checking that out before the day was over !
Making our way to the tower
View from a rocky outcropping near the tower
Sweeping view from a rocky outcropping just before the tower
Tyler at the base of the very tall and very old fire tower
Not all Gnomes can fly but, this one can !! John displays this as he seemingly flies across the huge chasm !
It did not take Tyler long to be convinced that he could also fly across this wide chasm !!
Tyler defying gravity across the huge chasm
Of course it was imperative that we all climb the tower. Although I have seen many do this, it is not recommended and is frowned upon by the powers that be which I am sure is mainly due to liability so I must tell you not to do it !! The lower sections of the stairs have been removed and there is signage to discourage this however, we declined that ‘suggestion’ and accepting our own liability as tradition required, we proceeded to monkey our way to the top. Of course without any stairs just getting up to the first step is slightly challenging and for some would be impossible which is actually a good thing as it keeps those that probably should not be climbing it from doing so. If you can reach the remaining steps there is still a lot of risk involved as the wood is very old and can NOT be trusted so you should place your feet on each outside edge in order to be over the steel braces where the original steps are mounted to obtain the best support. This tower is one of the taller ones so it can be quite intimidating. Any fear of heights would make this not advisable. Once at the top there is a spring loaded, heavily weighted door you have to push up while on the last steps. This is at least a 50 pound push with nothing to hold it open so if you lose your grip it would certainly knock you out and off the perch which just adds more danger to this undertaking. Of course we all live for such exploits so we made short work of getting to the top and inside what`s left of the old tower. It is rickety and does sway with any movement including any winds that might be blowing at the time. I would not recommend more than 4 at a time ever. The views are impeccable. It is rumored that if funding ever comes through that it will be converted into a safer observation tower. Either way as long as its still there I will be happy.
Tower view
Here you can see the ‘airplane rock’ that sits at the end of the ridge. This is another location still on my list to visit.
Zoomed shot of the ‘airplane rock’ . (Photo by John Forbes)
Tower view. Nice colors in the valley beyond the ‘hidden channels’
Tower view, continuing to pan right
Tower view, continuing to pan right
Tower view, slightly zoomed to show some of the remaining past peak colors
Tower view looking out over the main channels
I could tell Tyler was enjoying this !
Tower view looking out over the main part of the channels
Tower view (of Lebanon Va)
Tower view (still panning right )
tower view (farther right )
Tower view. I could not help but to notice those unique looking white rock spires on the right side, center of this photo,,,
Looking down at the mini channels that lies around the base of the tower with a cool tower shadow as a bonus !
Tower view, slightly more to the right
Tower view, panning right
Group shot !
Almost back down to the bottom. here is where the steps are gone !
John`s view of me descending the tower where the steps end (Photo by John Forbes)
Larry and myself climbing down the tower like monkeys in a zoo ! (Photo by John Forbes)
Watching the others as they climb back down the tower
Tyler descends the tower
Descending the last section
Tyler having no trouble coming down the tower without steps !
As you can see this is a very old tower (1939)
It even shows the elevation of the mountain upon which it sits upon.
Once off the tower we took a short recess to ‘snack early and snack often’ before going down into the chasm we had been ‘flying’ over before. Tyler and John made their way down onto a ledge and with a quick, precarious climb was standing in the opening of a hidden crack about half way down which would lead into a new world of channels. Larry and I wasted no time in joining them there. It led to a maze of a smaller version of the great channels which we wasted no time in exploring. There were other routes into these chasms from ground level and it was obvious that people do go here but, we had never taken the time to explore it before on previous trips. We even found another cave room in the deepest part of it. Having another new area to play in just added more to this already rewarding foray.
Tyler and John leading the way down into the mini channels under the tower
Once down on the ledge which was half way to bottom, Tyler and John disappear into another crack !! This would lead into the mazes of the mini channels there
Tyler finds yet another way down in the mini channels
Definite sign that others have been down here before
Rocks seem to defy gravity here
There was a lot of sand in this area
Eroding sandstone makes for some very nice looking rock formations
Following John back into another pitch black cave room
Looking back at Larry before I join john in the dark cave room behind me
Using our lights and my camera flash, I am able to light up this completely dark cave room we found deep in the mini channels
Larry outside the entrance to the new hidden cave room we discovered (Photo by John Forbes)
Me in the entrance to the small cave room we found (Photo by John Forbes)
After our play time in the mini channels, we wasted no time in continuing on to the Great Channels. We did take time to check out the top of them first by jumping over several deep chasms that are around 40 to 60 feet deep to hang out on top of the main channels for a while to give the first timers a sense of scale to the channels before proceeding down into them. This is definitely an amazing place and as John has proven it takes a minimum of 50 times visiting it to even begin to see everything it has to offer and, that is IF you know where to look. Even he still finds new things to see on each and every trip.
Hanging out on top of the great channels
One of many chasms that make up the great channels as seen from above them
making our way across the top of the great channels
Larry carefully negotiates a precarious spot in order to get across the top of the channels. You do NOT want to slip here as it is a long way down into the crack which would land you in the bottom of the channels.
Tyler follows suit as we make our way across many cracks and chasms along the top of the channels
Following John across the tops of the channels
Tyler on top of the channels about to make yet another leap of faith !
Live action shot of Larry the Roan Mtn Jedi as he climbs along the tops of the great channels of Virginia. Notice his hat is color coordinated with the bright red Mountain Ash tree !
These little rocky knobs that stick up everywhere along the top of the channels make it easy to trip and stumble which is something you do NOT want to do here !!
Looking down into one of the many cracks and chasms found on the top of the channels
View of the tower from on top of the main channels
Looking towards the tower across one of the larger chasms of the channels as continue to make our way around the top
Tyler adds some scale to the top of the channels and how difficult it is to get from one to the other !
Tyler on top of the main channels
Tyler and John on top of the main channels
Me, Tyler and john on top of the main channels (Photo by Larry Jarret)
Larry maneuvers across the top of the channels
Me doing a Gnome pose as I stand on top of the Main Channels (Photo by John Forbes)
Yeah, this picture speaks for itself. Hanging out under such rocks makes one stop and think.
I particularly love the main entrance to the channels as it passes under what I call the ‘music note rock’ which is a smooth sided, vertical rock wall that has what appears (to me) to be a perfect Crotchet or Quarter Note. Once past this you are instantly within the channels and the adventures begin as you are transformed into a rat trapped within a maze of rock. It can be intimidating as the routes are not marked and the huge monolithic cracks vary greatly in size from large to extremely narrow. It is really hard to see it all in one trip but, between the experience of John and myself, we did a respectable job of doing so.
Heading down into the main channels
Main entrance to the great channels
The entrance wall is marked by this cool music note !
This reminded me of a fossilized fish !
The rock colors and formations here are amazing
Finally Tyler gets to see the main event. Something I am sure he will never forget.
If you have any imagination you will see many different things here. This to me looks like a Tiki head you might see carved on something in Hawaii ? (Māori mythology)
Tyler exploring the chasms of the great channels
One of the coolest places in the channels
The channels
John straddles a large crack while looking up through the chasm to the sky above
John and Tyler hamming it up for the camera deep within the channels
Suddenly John is sucked in by a tight crack !!
This is what happens to crack addicts !!
Larry laying down on the job to get the shot !
This huge diamond shaped stone is wedged in from above as it obviously came to rest down into the chasm after millions of years of erosion. This rock has fascinated me ever since the first time I laid eyes upon it. The weight of this one stone could not be carried by any mechanical thing upon this earth !
This is like a huge Jenga tower of rocks. i would not want to be there if even one of those was to shift and fall !
Continuing through the maze of channels
John in one of many narrow passage ways of the channels
It is difficult to photograph here as the light is tricky. It was too bright on this day. It also helps to put someone in the shots to show the grand scale of the place. Tyler shows the size of these immaculate chasms of stone
There is something to see around every corner of this stone maze
Unless you are very familiar with the area it is a good idea not to get separated from your group as even though you may can hear them, you may not be able to get to them !
I call this the Frankenstein (or Herman Munster) boot rock !
You can see the many lines and pot marks caused by ice and erosion
Another angle of the boot rock
Circular striations on the rock
Some trees have no problems growing on rock
Looking at Tyler through one of the many channels
This looks to me like a fossilized dinosaur leg and connective tissues !!
Yep, I call this one, Dinosaur Leg Rock !!
John atop a known Gnome perch
John, err, gnomes do funny things sometimes !
One of dozens of passages
Before continuing a full exploration and the squeezing through the numerous very tight cracks found within this mighty labyrinth of rock, John would show us one of his most recent discoveries. This required some technical climbing to reach which explains why I have never seen any previous photos or documentation of it. It was worth the extra effort to reach the intricate , lofty puckering perch that was required to see it. Located in a deep, crevasse style crack just off the beaten path and, seemingly inaccessible was a large wall that had circular striations carved into it. It was a work of art and knowing that the channels were cut and formed by ice and myself having only seen basically straight lines running vertically and horizontally in most glacial made instances, I was very intrigued and actually puzzled as to how these near perfect circles were formed. We spent some time in this area before proceeding to the rest of the main channels.
This pic speaks volumes as to the decor found here
Looking up at Tyler and John as they have made the climb up to the special place John wanted to show us.
Larry begins his ascent up to see what all the fuss is about !
The Jedi being no stranger to tight holes and their playing hard to get has no trouble in scoring a home run with this one.
Looking back through the top of the arch after I got on top of this unique puckering perch
Once atop the high perch I could then see the new chasm John had found and I marveled at the circular grooved striations found in the rock wall here. It was very obvious that people do not go to this one.
This thing was huge, and the lighting was bad so I did my best to capture it.
Here John is like a human stylus on a giant record made of stone
If you look closely you can see John as he is high up in the attic of this grandiose chasm where the circular grooved stone wall is. This was all a very cool discovery that he had made on a previous sunrise to sunset quest
Another one as I try to show John in the attic of this super tall chasm
Climbing around in the attic was a lot of fun !
I have always been amazed at the ability of trees to grow on solid rock.
We spent most of the remaining day showing Larry and Tyler the many aspects of this exceptional area before making our way back to the top. We did take the time on our way out to stop at the ‘Hidden Channels’ again for the rapidly approaching sunset before heading back down the mountain.
Once back down from the high perch where the circle wall is, we continued showing the rest of the area to Tyler and Larry. This picture is of an area that is centralized in its location of all the cracks and chasms that I appropriately call ‘the lobby’.
You could spend all day just looking at the various marks cut out of all the sandstone rocks here.
One of the main channels at a time when the light was actually cooperating. This must mean it is getting late in the day.
More spectacular rock formations
I love these formations but, it is hard to photograph in bright light
This rock reminded me of skulls you might see in a haunted house during Halloween
There are not a lot of trees growing our of the channels but, the ones that are there compliment the look.
It takes all day to see all the chasms here and you still will probably miss some
Larry taking what I know are better pics than mine !
I never get tired of this place
One of the many channels here
John gnomin` around in one of the many places there are to play on here !
John demonstrates how flexible gnomes can be. or is he Gumby ?
Larry beside a very uniquely ice carved rock formation
Amazing rocks found here
The entire place is one huge maze of these channels. There is no pattern or reason and no blazes or signs to show the way.
Sometimes they dead end or have cracks that are too small to get through depending on your ability
One of the smaller ones but by no means not the tightest crack in this crowd !
These vertical grooves look drilled but i can assure you everything here is all natural.
Rocks, stacked like pancakes !
If you like rocks then this is the place for you !
around and around we go,,,
Squeezing thru a smaller one
Near the back end of the main channels Tyler and John check out some uniquely formed rocks
There is one very tight crack that we always like to go through on each visit here which is so narrow that you can not stand up in most of it but, rather you have to belly crawl through the smallest part of it. It is definitely not for the claustrophobic as it is completely dark and very hard to get through especially for someone of my size. It also requires climbing up and over a large rock obstacle one one end which is fairly hard as there are no hand or foot holds only smooth, slanted stone. We also lucked up and found a small underground room in one of the channels behind the tight squeeze crack that we had never seen before. It is always good to find new things each time we are here.
John sits atop of of the obstacles that block the tight crack we are seeking
Looking back at a fairly tight chasm that eventually leads to the super tight one.
I can not fit anywhere in this one.
Yep, it is a tight squeeze back in there yet it can be done !!
Tyler in the largest part of the tight squeeze crack ! (Photo by John Forbes)
Super tight. There is just something about crawling under this much rock that makes ya hope it dont move !!
We did find a new area we had not seen before that had a hidden cave room underneath the lower stone there.
Eerie looking rocks on our way down into the new cave room we found
It was almost pitch dark down in the underground room we found so I had to use a flash to show the beautiful rocks that were there
We had to use lights and flash to get pics of the rock in the small cave room area
Making our way back out from the newly discovered underground room. I love finding new things here on each trip.
Tyler in what looks to be a dead end
Looks like a tight squeeze ahead !
Tyler awaits to go next through this extremely tight crack. The red is Johns light as he prepares to video us crawling back through this super tight crawl
It was fun crawling through the tight crack but, it felt good being back out into the open air !
I love going through this part !
Slowly making our way out of the channels
finally back at the main entrance you can see John and the musical quarter note on the right high above him.
Close up of the music note wall at the main entrance
Almost out,,,
Cool looking root structure
Once out of the channels we could see the moon already high in the sky and knew it would not be long before the impending sunset. We made our way back up to the tower and over to the hidden channels to wait on its arrival.
Tower and moon
Moon and tower
Tower
Moon over the falling down building that sits near the tower on our way out
John at the old shack with the moon high above
Moon shot
Moon pic as the sun was setting
Waiting on the sunset from the hidden channels
Waiting on sundown at the Hidden Channels
Sunset from the hidden channels
Moon and the ever changing colors as the sun was setting
watching the color show
Watching the sunset from the hidden channels
Sunset
Sunset from the hidden channels
Zoomed
zoomed
I wished it had not been so hazy but, one can not complain about any sunset !
Good timing for a jet stream !
Gorgeous warm colors of the sunset
I love the mountains profile in this one
well known landmarks are now standing out in the pastel colors
Keep in mind this entire set of sunset pics only took a few minutes !
Going,,,
going,,,
going,,,
Gone !
Of course it got dark long before we got back to the vehicle as I can not ever recall making it out while there was still light on any Camel Servicer run which makes it all the better. There is just something about hiking under the moonlight after a long, gratifying day that brings about a great peace within your soul. (This is good as it takes your mind off the pains ! ) It had been another sensational day spent in one of Nature`s finest offerings that can be found in this area. We were ready for the post hike grub out yet, none of us seem to have any pictures of it. (Pretty sure it was LaCarreta at The Pinnacle) That happens when you were that tired and that hungry which equals a stellar day in the woods. Until next time,,,
My name is 'RAT' and I love the mountains and waterfalls of the East TN. area where I live and I hope you enjoy this blog about my outdoor adventures.
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