Linville Gorge – 9-23-2015
I am ashamed to say that it had been since May 26, 2013 since I last set foot into the Grand Canyon of the East officially called the Linville Gorge or as I now refer to it as ‘The Ditch’. At that time I was formally introduced to some intimate sections of it by the Gorge Rats during an annual camp out they do at the Hawksbill trail head. I was instantly addicted and before the weekend was over I was accepted as a Gorge Rat and properly given the patch. Having been busy with life since then and the pursuit of waterfalls it has taken me until now to get my claws back into the gorge. On this day I would be accompanied by my mountaineering friend John Forbes who although being no stranger to the gorge had never been to the particular section we would be enjoying on this trip. That section is the area called The Chimneys and is one of my favorite places in the gorge. After a nearly 2 hour drive we arrived at the Table Rock parking lot and began our journey South along the Mountains to Sea Trail.
This route climbs immediately up into the Chimney Rocks and soon we would find ourselves climbing up onto rocky outlooks the first of which, was looking back with an incredible close up view of Table Rock and Little Table Rock and beyond. If this first view was any premonition of how our day was going to be, it was going to be epic. I must warn you now that this blog contains about 400 pictures. This is because this place is just that awesome ! That, and I can not possibly produce any words that could describe its beauty and awesomeness so I will let the pictures tell the story for me.

View of the morning sun waking up Table Rock (center) and Little Table Rock (left) with the summit of Hawksbill peeking up in the distance

Looking East (just to the right of Table Rock) That is Brown Mountain on the far right side of the pic.

RAT doing a Gnome pose from one of the first overlooks. That is looking East behind me. (Photo by John Forbes)

Looking South we can see the backside of the first cliffs of the Chimney Rocks with part of Shortoff Mtn in the distance

From our first overlook we could see not only Table Rock but, by looking just to the left of TR we could see Little Table rock (pictured here) along with the upper (North) end of the Linville Gorge
From there the views only continue to improve as you enter the Chimneys which is filled with numerous rock cliffs and formations that would take several trips to explore all of. The next stop would be a rocky overlook where you get your first good view into the gorge and over to the next rock spine which is a favorite of mine they call Botswanna Arete. It is a very narrow yet, tall rock spine that has a square hole in its side that I hope to stand in one day.

Here I am practicing the famous Gnome pose atop one of the many overlooks we would be on. You can see the Twin Tower rocks in the distance behind me. (Photo by John Forbes)

Looking over at the narrow rock spine wall known as Botswanna Arete. Can you see the hole in its side ?
There are also several look offs on the back side of the Chimney Rocks area where you can see for miles and miles towards the East. Of course the best views from the Chimneys is to climb up on top of them however, we would not be doing that on this trip as we would follow the MST (Mountains To Sea Trail) below them to reach the trail that leads down to the Camel Olk rock cliffs which reside at that end of the NC Wall. As we made our way across and below the Chimney Rocks the views were constantly changing so I will apologize now for the high volume of pics this blog will contain!

The Goldenrods ? were in full bloom on this day which made for some nice contrast along with the early Fall colors that were just starting

View of the Chimneys in the direction we are going. You can see the Twin Towers in the right side of this picture

This is a view from the backside (east side) of the Chimneys looking South. That is part of Shortoff Mountain in the far distance

John got this killer shot of me atop one of the many rock formations as we entered into the Chimney`s (Photo by John Forbes)
Without climbing up to the top of the highest cliffs of the Chimney Rocks, there is still so much to see and do just traversing this short distance across their base. It is such a vast area that it is not possible to take it all in during one outing. As we slowly made our way along the trail we took time to check out many rock formations, cracks, rock spires, etc. as we marveled at their beauty and the exquisite views we were constantly being bombarded by. Despite what many may assume, the gorge and its cliffs were not formed by any shifting of plates or volcanic activity but, rather it was all done by many years of erosion.

John doing his trademark Gnome pose atop a narrow rock spine. I like to put people in my photos to show scale of the surrounding terrain

The views from the various rock cliffs are amazing. If you are afraid of heights though, this place is not for you !

John gets a pic of me atop one of the many rock formations. This is looking back towards Table Rock. (Photo by John Forbes)

Some very uniquely shaped rocks along the way. We would take the time to climb these upon our return trip

Panorama of me on the MST beside the side trail to the cliffs we would check out on our way out. This is looking East off the back side of the Chimneys (Photo by John Forbes)

John got this awesome hot looking down on me with some unique rock formations behind me. These are at the beginning of the Chimney rocks. (Photo by John Forbes)

As we reach one of the larger Chimney Cliffs there is a high road and a low road. Since we would not be going up top of these we would choose the low road (the MST)

Me standing on the MST with the Botswanna Arete rock spine in the view behind me (Photo by John Forbes)

You can see the trail as it heads towards that large cliff in the distance where we will bushwhack down to those two rock spires that sit just above Catbriar Cliff

Some early colors were beginning to pop along the high cliff tops over on the West side of the gorge

Profile view of the ridge we would be bushwhacking down to reach the rock spires that sit above Catbriar Cliff

Looking back at the other side of the Botswanna Arete spine. What fascinates me about this picture is that the square hole in its side is not showing from here. It is there only it requires the right angle and lighting to make it visible. It would be visible in the setting sun on our way back as seen here.

We spotted these climbers as we passed under one of the large Chimney Rock Cliffs. I will be going up top of these and the others on my next trip here !

I am sure this little side trail that goes beneath those huge rocks leads to somewhere neat but, we did not have time to check that out. Another reason to come back !

John inside the crack. This crack does go all the way to the top of the cliff.

Following the MST we could see the tops of the two rock spires. Somehow I knew we would end up finding our way down to them.

Better view of the Twin Towers and the top of Catbriar Cliff. We could tell it would be a bushwhack down to these.

Huge fern along the MST. The next cliff we are approaching is where the ridge comes up from the twin tower rocks
We did decide to take a detour to bushwhack down to a couple of large rock spires that we had been seeing that drew us to them like a magnet to steel. It was worth fighting the scrub growth and being scratched by briers to see them, not to mention the steep climb back up as they are very awesome spires. I later learned these are called the ‘Twin Towers‘. One day I plan on continuing below them to stand atop of the huge cliff below that is called ‘Catbriar Cliff’.

John captured this shot of me leading the way down the steep bushwhack to the Twin Towers (Photo by John Forbes)

After an off trail bushwhack down the ridge John finds himself at the base of the upper twin tower rocks. These were very impressive.

View from the twin towers looking towards the Chimneys. This is looking straight on the Botswanna Arete rock spine showing just how narrow it really is.

John at the other and shorter twin tower rocks shot from the base of the larger one. The early colors were amazing

Looking straight down to the top of Catbriar Cliff from standing atop one of the Twin Towers rocks. You would not want to fall from here.

Looking down on Catbriar Cliff from the Twin Towers rocks. You can see the huge crack between it and us. It would not be easy to get tot he top of those cliffs but I plan to try

John had thoughts of climbing the tallest of the Twin Tower rocks but, was not feeling it as we did not have a rope for safety.

Looking back at the Twin Towers rocks as we climb back up the spine of the ridge to get back to the trail.

A brilliant red found on the bushwhack back up the ridge from the Twin Towers rocks. This view is the route up !
Once we finally got back up to the trail above, it was only a short distance farther to locate the unmarked side trail that leads steeply down to the Camel Rocks and the start of the NC Wall. It does not take long to get to that point either but, we did take another faint side trail out the opposite way that leads down to another awesome set of overlook rocks/cliffs where you can see the Camel Rocks up close and personal. We even took the time to climb out on some of the lower ledges (goat trails) of the NC Wall which gave us some more unique views of the Camel Rocks and the gorge. We spent quite a bit of time climbing around in this area.

Nice colors and residual burn damage along the right side of the trail that led us down to the Camel Olk Rocks

Our first view of the NC Wall at the lower end of the Camel Rocks side trail. You can also see the Sphinx rock.

Not only our first view of the NC Wall but, also our first view of Shortoff Mountain in the far distance

We would take time to go out on this narrow rock spine cliff to get views of the Camel Olk Rocks before proceeding over the NC Wall

Our view from this rocky overlook above the Camel rock. From here we could now see Hawksbill and Sitting Bear

Hanging out on the overlooks on the side trail that leads to above the Camel Rocks (Photo by John Forbes)

It is from this angle that the Camel Rock obviously got its name. You can see its head turned sideways and the hump on its back. Awesome !

Looking down at the base of the Camel Rock. Yes it is huge, and very steep. It is a long ways down there and even farther to the Linville River below.

View of the unique plant life that thrives along the side of the NC Wall with the Sphinx in the background. We would climb out on some of these narrow ledges for some other views

John makes his way out a very narrow ledge to get a better view of the wall and what lies far above and below it

Looking down here you can see what an excellent job Mother Nature does of landscaping the ‘window boxes’ of the cliffs. The colors and beauty are outstanding.

John standing on the narrow rock spine that is over from the Camel rock overlook. (one we seen earlier at the base of the side trail we took down to here)

As we stand on top of the narrow rock spine, we look back at the overlook we were just on that sits above the Camel Rock. Killer view !

John on one of the many overlooks we would experience on this day. Note his hiking stick laying on the rock beside him as this is foreshadowing of event.

Again, it does not look like a Camel from this side however, the colors and view of the gorge below it from this angle is unbelievable !

Looking towards the NC Wall from the narrow rock spine we were playing on. That overhanging rock I called the ‘crocodile rock’

Rather large pine tree growing right on the side of the NC Wall. It always amazes me how things like this can thrive on solid rock.

A small part of the NC Wall as seen from the rock spine we were on. We would soon be standing on its top edge

Part of the NC Wall. Is it just me or do those dark holes and cracks intrigue you and make you want to be there to poke your nose in them ?

Our view from the rock spine. You can clearly see a large portion of the NC Wall , the Moss Monster and the Sphinx

Zoomed shot of the Sphinx Rock. You can see a small taste of the steep and rugged terrain you will encounter when going down there

John on the upper end of the rock spine. We would be going back up and around the crack to make our way onto the top of the NC Wall

View from the butt end of the crack with the wall on the left and the rock spine we were just on to the right
Once we exhausted that area we backtracked back up to the trail and started making our way across the NC Wall. This was slow going. Not because of a poor trail but, because of all the killer views ! We could not resist stopping at each overlook and rock spine, climbing out on every one of them to check out all kinds of rock formations, huge cracks, and incredible views in all directions. We would also get views looking back towards the Camel Rocks and other things we had explored earlier. This gave yet another perspective on it all and we could also start to see the Moss Monster (among other large spires) and The Sphinx rock which all sit at the base of the NC Wall.

NOT a blueberry or huckleberry ! But, rather just one of the many invasive variations of the catbriars that are pests in this area.

Looking back across the gully to the narrow rock spine we were just standing on. You can see the cool little bonzai tree at its point !

Top of the NC Wall. In this view, we are looking down yet another gully where you can see the Moss Monster Rock and the point of the Sphinx Rock sticking out at the lower right

Checking out yet another rock spine we can see a lone rock spire standing tall in front of the Moss Monster behind it with the Sphinx point sticking its nose out in the distance

John stands on another rock spine. To me this pic is epic because it shows the lone rock spire, the Moss Monster, the Sphinx, the NC Wall and Shortoff with Lake James all in one shot !

Zoomed shot of the top of the Moss Monster and the Sphinx. It looks small from the top but you can tell in this shot it gets MUCH larger as you get close to them !
Continuing across the NC Wall we would traverse over and around more rock formations, rock spines, and crevice style gullies. The views never stopped coming. I filled up more than one memory card on this trip.

Looking back at the first major rock spine we had been on. You can see the lower part of the Camel in the lower right of the cliffs

Although you are looking at the same things, each picture has something new to offer and I could never tire of these views !

Making our way across the NC Wall you can see many unique rock formations such as the strangely shaped rock seen in the far right side of this picture. It is just sitting there and looks like it could slide off at any time yet it is molded to fit the rock it sits upon.

Looking up from the edge of the NC Wall you can see it is healing quickly from the recent wild fire that occurred here. The postcard blue sky and puffy white clouds along with the colors were brilliant on this day

Getting closer to the Moss Monster Rock Spire. You have to wonder how that one white looking rock got singled out on top of it !

Zooming closer to the Moss Monster. I can not wait until I squeeze between it and the wall at the base

Yet another chasm / gully coming up. I am told this is the Moss Monster climbers trail and desire route down to it.

John does another Gnome pose once he gets over to the next set of cliffs. A posing Gnome is a happy Gnome !

The clouds were phenomenal at times during this wonderful day in the gorge. Here you can see the lower part of the Moss Monster below

Looking back from here, we could see the keyhole shaped crack between the Camel Rock and the NC Wall with Hawksbill at the top of it !

Zoomed view of the keyhole crack between the Camel and the wall. This shows the colors on Hawksbill too

Here I am taking a break enjoying the view. You can see the keyhole crack between the Camel Rock and the NC Wall at the far left side of this picture (Photo by John Forbes)

Super zoom of the above pic looking thru the keyhole crack between the Camel and the NC Wall with Hawksbill in the background

Mega zoom !! I was trying to show the keyhole crack and the colors of Hawksbill as seen of the Camel and the NC Wall

John looks back and down upon the Moss Monster. You can see all the various rock spines we climbed up as well

This is one of the best looking back shits O took, you can see everything we came over from Camel rock (far left) to where we are now
It was at this point that we noticed a huge rock spire over from us that was actually connected which enabled us to carefully negotiate a climb out to it. This amazing spire had a crack in it which separated it from its sister half. John knew as soon as he seen it that he would have to sit upon the alienated part of it so I stayed on the wall overlook while he climbed over to it and proceeded to lower himself into the crack which would be required to climb up onto the extremely narrow spire. This would prove to be larger and harder than it first appeared yet he did manage to freestyle this climb over and back while I took a series of pics to capture the dangerous feat. Please notice the ‘jenga’ stacked rocks in the crack. We had no way of knowing how sturdy those would be until he stood up them.

I could see a hillbilly springboard to sit on to the left side and a rock spine and spire to climb on to the right !

John carefully lowers himself down into the crack to see if the pile of Jenga rocks is solid enough to stand upon

I looked away for a split second and when I looked back John was no where in sight. At first I thought he had fell but, then he appeared from behind the rock spire which was the best way to climb up on it. I was relieved but, then I remembered that we both have an agreement that if we ever do fall, that we will scream loudly all the way until the point of impact !

Of course this would mean he had to come back ! Here John is carefully negotiating the climb down the backside where he once again would disappear. I was watching this time !

Continuing the climb back up. This is perhaps the most dangerous part of the climb. Very narrow and slanted footing and instant death if you fall.
Once John completed the climb back and was safely upon the main spire again, I noticed a rock sticking out of the vertical cliff I was taking the pics from that resembled a diving board. We call these ‘Hillbilly Springboards’. This one had a lot of air under it so I proceeded to climb out onto it to sit. As I did this I heard John saying in an excited manner, that I might not want to do that but, at the time I could not see any problem with it so I dangled my legs over the edge and took some pics as John also got some pics of me sitting on it. It was not until I got off it and joined him on the rock spire that I could see what his concern was ! It seems there was not much above the rock holding it down and it appeared as if it could fall at any time. Had I looked at it from that angle I probably would not have sat on it ! But, it never moved and the small amount of rock holding its backside most like weighs a ton or two so I was probably safe in doing so for the most part but, I know I will not risk doing it again on that particular rock !

My position from where I was taking pics of John`s climb, just before I would climb out onto the puckering perch below me ! (Photo by John Forbes)

While John rested, I took a shot looking down from the Hillbilly Springboard I was sitting upon. This is some 3 feet away from the cliffs edge and after seeing this rock from John`s perspective, I wish I had not ever sat there !!

My view from the overhanging rock. John expressed much concern when I climbed out onto it and for good reason that I would see later !

In this pic you can see why John was concerned with me sitting on the Hillbilly Springboard rock (center one that is casting the short shadow) as you can see how far out it protrudes and how little it has on its backside to hold it into place !!!!!

Me sitting on the very unsafe puckering perch. Once I got this view of it, I realized how easy it could flip and tumble down into the gorge below (Photo by John Forbes)

Looking back from the Jenga Rock Tower it becomes obvious that when you are standing along the edge of the NC Wall, that sometimes there is a lot of air beneath you !!
We played around on the awesome rock spire there for a long time before continuing on our way across the rest of the NC Wall. The next leg would require climbing back up some to get around this huge gully type crack. It was awesome looking down into this and I am pretty sure it is along here where the Moss Monster trail comes down from the top and goes into this ravine to descend down to the base of the Moss Monster and the NC Wall as I have friends who have done this and went out to the Sphinx Rock. That too is on my list.
Once we neared the Southern part of the NC Wall I kinda lost track of the route having only been here once before and it was from the other direction so, instead of following the edge down as the cliffs drop in elevation on that end, we ended up going kinda straight and above it all which caused us to lose the route and miss going across the last part of the edge of the NC Wall. Due to this I did not get my favorite view looking down on The Sphinx however, we did find a nice set of cliffs hidden in the new growth that has came back since the fire that we were able to make our way along the base of which at least took us in the right direction.

Making my way along the rocks we found when we went too high along the NC Wall (Photo by John Forbes)
Everything looked so different from my last trip through here. It was not just because it had been awhile but, because the fire really changed things and so much different growth is coming back with a vengeance that it makes the old routes hard to find and follow. After we came to the end of these rocks, we ended up in a short bushwhack through some briers and such before I got a visual on the Amphitheater. There were no trails and although I knew where we had to be there was this large gully between us and the ridge I knew we had to be on as I could see the Amphitheater beyond it so, we had no choice but to go down into it and climb up onto that ridge which put us right on the Amphitheater Trail that I quickly recognized and led the way to the overlook there where we took a long rest and enjoyed the incredible views seen from there and reflected on all that we had seen and done thus far.

Standing on the overlook we can look down into the Amphitheater and over to the Mummy Buttress with Shortoff Mtn in the distance. This is another one of my favorite places in the gorge

I love the view through this bonzai tree at the point of the Amp overlook. Shortoff looks great in the distance
Although it had not been a great distance as far as miles goes, we were both feeling tired which was a combination of the lack of sleep, roughness of terrain, the heat as it was a warm day with intense bright sunshine to which we were completely exposed to the whole time without cover, and the intensity of the experience. I was bloodied from the briers but, I consider those merit badges given to me by the gorge I love so much. We rested for awhile taking in the views from this killer overlook that views not only the entire Amphitheater, but a close up view of the Mummy Buttress cliffs, and a much better view of Shortoff in the distance. The sun was too bright for any good pics but, it did not matter to us at the time.

View from Amp Overlook over the Mummy Buttress towards Shortoff Mountain and the South end of the gorge

Zooming farther you can start to see Piano rock that sits at the base of the cliffs of Shortoff and more of Lake James where the Linville River empties into
I was dreading the climb up to the top on the Amphitheater trail but the time finally came to leave so I slowly but surely drug my fat butt up the hill. This would take awhile and I was really happy to reach the MST and have my feet on level ground for a change. From there we headed North to get back to the Chimneys where we had started. With much easier walking on this real trail we were soon back to the place where we had left this trail earlier to go down to the Camel Rocks having now made a loop. We stopped to check out some other cliffs above us on the way out.

Once back to the Chimney rocks area, I could clearly see the hole in the side of the Botswanna Arete rock spine as the sunset was illuminating it. Yes I am somewhat obsessed with this hole as I do plan to sit in it one day !

Looking up at the higher parts of the Chimneys. I hope to traverse across the top of these on my next trip here. The views from up there are about the best the gorge has to offer.

Looking back to see a view of the Twin Towers rocks that we had climbed down to early that morning while the sun was setting upon them

Even though the sunset is washing out this pic, I included it to show the ridge profile that leads down to the Twin Towers rocks. Climbing down and up that earlier that morning was a lot of fun

John had gotten ahead of me and I came around this corner to find him doing a full Gnome pose on top of one of the large rock formations we had planned on checking out on the way out
By the time we got back to the end of the Chimneys where we had started it was getting late and the sun was beginning to set. We did take a short side trip to climb up on one of the rock formations on the high side to get some different views with the changing light. The moon was also already up so I tried to get some pics of it as well. The light had been too bright all day so I had hopes of maybe getting a few decent pics but, it was not to be.

John had already taken the short side trip up to the large rock formations and was calling me to join him

John captured this shot of me exploring some of the rock spires on out way out. (Photo by John Forbes)

From the top of these rocks we could see our route out with Table Rock behind it basking in the setting sun

Looking farther East we could see the shadow of Table Rock which made it clear why it was named as such

Once I free climbed to the top of this Spire, this is the view I had looking towards Table Rock (Photo by John Forbes)
I was wanting to stay on top of the mountain for the sunset but, I could tell it was really not going to be a very good one and we were both starving so, I slowly made my way off the mountain and back to the parking area. John was already ahead of me and got there way before me as I was moving pretty slow by this time. It was nearly dark by the time I reached the car where John was waiting for me and I was glad to be back and making the long drive back. We stopped at Lone Star steakhouse in Elizabethton, TN. for the post hike grub out. It had been a stellar day in the gorge and I was already planning my next trip back there. Until next time,,,,,,
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