RATtreks

Return to Splash Dam, Elk River, and Jones Falls – 1-10-2012

It has been a while since my last trip to the Elk River (Big Falls) area so when my friend Dave Aldridge asked if I was interested in going with him to Splash Dam Falls there was no hesitation in my saying yes. It was a mild winter day and the water levels were decent however the forecast was for sunny skies which would once again doom any chances we had of getting any good photos of these falls. Since it was a Tuesday we got a later start of around 10am due to my working until 5am that same morning but it is not far nor is it a difficult hike to get to the falls. We were there before noon (going in the only way I knew how) but, we would find a much easier way on the way out. The route starts at the Elk River Falls (aka Big Falls) and follows the Elk River until you take a side trail (crossing the Jones Creek) to the Appalachian Trail where you continue North until you reach the turn off to Splash Dam Falls. There is no signs or markings so you just have to know where it is in order to find them. Once you locate the turn off, it is a short ways to a hobo camp/party spot of sorts where there is always lots of trash and things hanging on clothes lines. After this you follow a trail through the open area to reach the top of the falls where you can walk out on a huge flat rock where the entire river squeezes down into the narrow crevice of the falls.

Splash Dam Falls

Depending on your ability and the adventure level desired, you can carefully climb down this rock to a lower part of it where you can get a different angle on the falls but in order to get a full shot of the falls you will need to get further away from them which is a bit harder to do.

Splash Dam Falls

In order to get downstream from the falls for better picture angles you will need to climb up and over the steep, rocky area just to the left of the falls. You can go further up and climb up and over the ridge and find the way down but there is a secret ‘ninja trail‘ just over the rock beside the falls. (This is very steep plus it is slick and usually leaf covered  and can be dangerous so it is not for everyone) There are more than one narrow ledge here so you must pick and choose carefully to take the best ones. There are some small cave-like holes in the cliffs here so don’t forget to say hello to the resident gargoyle if you see him! Choosing correctly will take you over and down to the first draw where you can get a decent shot of the falls.

Splash Dam Falls

After that it is not hard to find the way further downstream where you can get even better although more distant pics of the falls and the shelf-like cascades below them. Too bad the sun was directly in our lenses making any chances of getting decent pics impossible. This means yet another trip back to these falls but my friend Bol’Dar has not been here so will hopefully come back soon and on a cloudy day.

Splash Dam Falls

After getting what pics we could and realizing that no clouds were coming, we decided to do a short but very steep climb up between the rock cliffs to the ridge above to make our way back to the hobo camp and take the easy way out to the AT from there. There is a nice flat spot on top of the ridge with a good view of the river below. Once back at the AT we went back the same way we had come and since it was still early we thought it would be a good idea to hike up the one mile or so on the AT to the Jones Falls. You can hear them long before you get to them and during winter you can see the top part of them where the brown colored rocks are showing through the trees.

Small part of Jones Falls as seen in the distance

It did not take long to reach the side trail to the falls. Due to the considerable elevation gained in the one mile climb, it was noticeably colder and we found a pile of snow at the base of the falls. The breeze coming off the falls definitely had a bite to it. There was not as much water coming off the falls as there was last time I was here but it was still very nice to be there since it is such a unique and beautiful area.

Jones Falls

Jones Falls

Jones Falls

Jones Falls

There were a few light clouds that did appear but it was still too bright for my camera to do any good but this gave me more time to just sit and enjoy the beauty of the falls. We both climbed up to where the big rock is that is the landmark of the Jones Falls to get some pics of the free fall found there not to mention the ‘rooster tail‘ just above it. I remember the first time I came here, we climbed above the falls and found the small falls located just above in the laurels there and then took a huge shortcut which required many map skills to get back down the other side back to the parking lot where we started. I will never forget that trip.

Jones Falls

Jones Falls

Jones Falls (upper part where brown colored rocks that can be seen from distance before you get to falls is located)

Jones Falls (upper part)

Jones Falls (upper part)

It was getting late afternoon by this time and our fingers and feet were starting to feel the cold due to not moving much so, much like the water from the falls, we descended down to the Elk River with plans of stopping at the Elk River  falls there before heading home. Going back down did not take long at all and we  soon found ourselves admiring some fresh beaver handiwork although I have never seen any beaver dams in the immediate area.

View of Elk River from where connecting trail to AT comes out

On the way back I talked Dave into taking the old trail that follows the crest of the hill just above the river. Parts of this trail are good but other parts have grown up and are narrow and slanted so this was quite a workout to get all the way back to the Elk River Falls at the end of a day. This trail did go over an impressive cliff with a great view of the river gorge with the falls way off in the background. It went down steeply from there and disappeared for awhile in some laurel hells but soon got better as we neared the other shortcut trail coming in from the right that is in good shape the rest of the way to the falls.

View from a cliff high up on the old trail (you can see Elk Falls in the far distance)

More beaver work found on the old trail

Elk RIver Falls (aka Big Falls)

I did manage to get some better pics of these falls than I have gotten in the past as the light was a bit better than before. I was able to play with the camera settings and use a cpf filter (hand held) to try and get some different effects:

Elk River Falls (taken with an auto setting)

Elk River Falls (taken with a manual setting)

Elk River Falls (taken using a manual setting with a cpf filter held in front of the lens)

Elk River Falls

Elk River Falls

Elk River Falls

We were also greeted by a really nice little stray dog that was really wanting to go home with someone. I gave it the only food I had which was a candy bar but it was glad to have it. We hung out there for awhile and then finally mustered up the energy to climb the steep trail along the rocky cliffs beside the falls stopping at the top of the falls for just a moment before heading home.

Stray Dog

Top of Elk River Falls

Top of Elk River Falls

It is hard to believe that some people actually dive off the top of these falls but I have seen it done. Many have died doing so. One juvenile boy drowned while swimming (he did not dive) near the falls as the current of the falls took him down and his leg became tangled in some fishing line. It took more than a day or two to find his body. This is not a place to play around as it can be very dangerous so please use extreme caution and good judgement when visiting places such as this.  I have seen kayaks go right over the falls before which seems safer than jumping but you will not catch me doing either one !

Looking off the top of Elk River Falls

Looking off the top of Elk River Falls

Although the total miles hiked was only about 4+, I still felt tired as if I had hiked much farther. This was probably due to my lack of sleep and the extra effort required to hike the old trail back to the Elk Falls. It is always wonderful to be in the woods anytime and this day was no exception. I am sure I will be back here soon to try once again to get a decent pic of the Splash Dam Falls.

Odd car seen on road to Elk River Falls (1974 SAAB ??)

For more photographs of these falls and many more, please visit our Photo Gallery here.