Twisting and Compression Falls – 10-6-2016
With the Fall colors just beginning along with the mild temps and lower water level, I decided it was time for another return trip to one of my favorite locations in the Elk River Gorge which is Twisting and Compression Falls. This would be my son Tyler`s first time to this awe inspiring area and it is always exciting to see the expressions on the faces of first timers especially when they are seeing a place as rugged and special as this one. We would be accompanied by John Forbes who is also no stranger to these parts having been with me on more than one occasion here. Normally we would follow river right along a very hard to find and primitive ninja goat trail that snakes it way along the tops of the many cliffs that line that side of the gorge which does afford a very good high view of Twisting Falls not to mention being able to get down onto the ‘shelf rock‘ just below the base of the falls and then continue on until a super steep descent down the correct off trail route would land us at the base of Compression Falls. Of course here is also ‘the chasm‘ that one can use a rope to climb down to reach the base of Twisting Falls as well, which we did on a previous trip but, since the weather was warmer this time and we were looking for a new adventure here, we decided that we would cross the river and go down river left all the way to Compression Falls and out that way. Our decision was rewarding and paid off with everything we had expected and then some.
NOTE: There has been much controversy recently about the names of the waterfalls included in this section of the Elk River. Many believe that the name ‘Twisting Falls’ applies to ALL the drops / falls within this section. This is also how it has been listed on USFS Topo maps for many years and I can see why because the falls are somewhat close together and the river does twist around in a rather extreme manner as it runs its course through this section of the gorge over the various drops found there. The name ‘Compression’ falls has never been an official title as it was contrived from a kayaker who compressed his spine going over the lowest and largest of the drops several years ago however, after speaking with many of the current locals and old timers of the Poga community, the main falls has never been called ‘Twisting Falls’ by them. That name has always been reserved (by them and the kayakers) for the upper falls that are NR (Not Runnable) by rafters / kayakers, etc., and boats must be portaged around. There are many like myself who agree that naming a series of obviously very separate, different, and unique waterfalls under one name is not only confusing but, is usually not the norm when it comes to the waterfall naming game. Although the names I use (or don`t use) for these various falls are by no means official and most likely never will be, I will continue to use them in an attempt to avoid confusion and separate each one from the others as, it is felt that each drop indubitably qualifies as an independent waterfall not only due to their individual heights but, also due to the distance between each drop. This is only a personal opinion shared by myself and several others within the waterfall and hiking community. Feel free to call them whatever you like.
It was a beautiful, warm morning as the sun made its way down into the deep Elk River gorge, casting its radiant glow on the assorted autumn colors that were just starting to show. The trail down from the top is extremely steep and rutted without any formal construction making for a slick descent under any conditions. Once we reached the river we changed into our water shoes and found the safest place to cross over to the other side in order to make our way down to the top of Twisting Falls where we would introduce Tyler to what we affectionately call ‘The MeatGrinder‘.

Tyler stands atop of a small falls on the way to Twisting Falls which lies directly under that diamond shaped rock in the background.

Tyler`s view of the small falls he was standing atop of. This is looking back up river the way we came down

John has donned his water shoes and instantly strikes a happy Gnome pose as he crosses the unusually low water of the river

A view looking back at the small falls. If you look close you can see the dark / light and moss lines that show just how much the water level was down. This is usually flowing much higher and stronger !!

The top of Twisting Falls and what we affectionately call The Meatgrinder ! Even at low water levels you can see the violence here !
Tyler seemed to stay one or two steps ahead of me the entire time as he is not much into the picture taking part of these hikes yet, and John lagged a bit behind me taking his time to meticulously document the trip , both of which offered me ample opportunities to photograph them in various desirable places. We did spend a lot of time exploring all aspects of Twisting Falls and the rock formations beside it, leaving no crack or crevice untouched. I could tell that Tyler shared my love for the massive rock cliff beside the falls that I have affectionately named such titles asĀ ‘Mantis Head Rock’ and the ‘Bee’s or Wasp’s HeadĀ Rock’ or ‘Hornet`s Head Rock’ etc. You can see why by its triangular diamond shape that sits high above that seemingly looks down on the falls. The narrow ledge beneath it are used to portage kayaks around the falls as they are NR (not run-able). Standing on the tip top is exhilarating to put it mildly.

Wide angle of John posing above Twisting Falls. You can see ‘the ledge’ cliff area where I have gotten great pics of these falls from on previous trips in the distance where the river makes an abrupt left hand turn.

John poses just above Twisting Falls. Any other time the rock he is standing on would be underwater but, on this trip we would be able to get up close and personal with these falls in a way we have not been able to do before.

This view of the top of Twisting Falls is normally not possible as the current would make it impossible to stand here.

Tyler already past the Hornet`s Head Rock aka mantis Head Rock , looks down into the falls before he continues to stay a few steps ahead of us.

Me doing the traditional style Gnome pose above the ‘MeatGrinder’ of Twisting Falls with my son ‘Little RAT’ above me as he stands under the Mantis Head Rock. (photo by John Forbes)
Due to the lower than normal water levels and the warm , dry conditions, we were able to access points deep within and very close to the falls on the river left side. Normally the spray off the falls would make the rocks much too slick to get any traction on due to their extreme sloping angle. This was a royal treat in itself which we did our best to capture in our photos.

John at the top of Twisting Falls as seen from a place that is normally not possible to stand on due to high water levels and spray making the sloping rock impossible to stand on.

John looking down into Twisting Falls while still on river right gives some scale to the size of these falls that look much smaller without a person in the shot ! It was once said these falls were only 16 feet high,, hmmm,,

My view of the ‘shelf ledge) from the mantis rock where the river makes a hard left hand turn below it. having been on top of the cliff and sat on the ledge there before, I had much appreciation for this view.
Tyler had already found his way down to the base of the falls and managed to jump to a rock mid-river and from there another jump landed him on the other side where he continued to almost get around the rounded splash pool`s narrow, sloped edge ! I eventually followed suit as did John and we all spent a significant amount of time there including a cold swim over to the base of the falls and back by Tyler and myself before continuing down river to the next falls (unnamed) that lie in between Twisting and Compression Falls. We did notice the distinct smell of what we thought was a campfire while at the base of Twisting falls but, as it turns out the smell grew intensely stronger which actually affected our breathing. By the time we got down to Compression Falls the gorge was filled with visible smoke so we knew there had to be a forest fire somewhere nearby. It turns out that it was on the nearby Buck Mountain which we would be able to see the smoke coming from once we got out of the gorge. We kept thinking of what our plan of action would be if a fire was to suddenly overtake our location ! Having the river beside us was a great comfort however, breathing underwater is not possible nor is it possible in thick, choking smoke !

Tyler finding a way down from the backside of the Mantis Rock to get over to the other side and the base of the falls

I know what Tyler is feeling right now as I recall my first time in that spot although I roped down from above where he is standing when it was frozen ! (and had to climb back up the same way !)
Once Tyler returned back from the base of the falls on the other side I turned my attention to John who was still on river right as he was being very thorough with his exploration and documentation of everything and was now bringing up the rear. He would soon take my place on river left beneath the mighty Mantis Rock so he could also take advantage of the low water levels and dry rock surfaces to get up close and personal with the falls.

Being able to get this close to the falls was rare nevertheless to witness these 2 potholes that are usually behind a raging plume of twisting water !

John giving some scale to Twisting Falls. It has been said that these falls are on 16 feet high. I think that is incorrect !!

Looking across the lower part of the splash pool from my puckering perch along the side of the falls

Looking across the splash pool at the steeply slanted rock on the other side. John and I had roped down that to reach the base on the other side when it was frozen on a previous trip here. The water level was much higher then as there was barely a level place to stand !

I had a good view of the ‘ledge shelf’ from this vantage point which is one of my favorite places to view these falls from. We would not be going on it on this trip as it is access from river right.

Tyler takes my previous position on the puckering perch at the side of the falls. You can see how this would be impossible during higher water levels due to the extreme spray that would have those rocks so slick that it would be impossible to stand on them. Today was a special day that they were dry and we were able to climb anywhere we wanted basically.

You can tell by Tyler`s body language that even though the surface of the rock was dry, they are still slick as they have been polished that way by many years of water flowing over them so one has to be extremely careful to maneuver around on them

John takes his turn at getting up close and personal with Twisting Falls on the extremely sloped rock. This is usually not possible.

Me at the base of the falls. Normally the rock ledge I am standing on would be underwater. (photo by John Forbes)

Tyler taking advantage of the lower water to see if he can get around the splash pool at the base of Twisting Falls

Tyler in a unique perch. if you look at the water line you`ll see the normal height is about at his knees !
Tyler came back across from river right a second time and continued farther down river left while John and I finally made it to the other side of the river where more pics would be taken despite the light now getting onto the falls. Tyler eventually came back and joined us (his third trip to river right side of the falls) and I somehow talked him into taking a very cold swim with me to the base of the falls and back ! This was exhilarating to put it mildly !

Looking down at the route I had to take to get to the other side. Just one big jump to the rock in the center then another shorter one to get to the base of the chasm and I`m home free !
The following pics I took using my slightly larger camera while at the base of Twisting Falls on river right:
It was then time for a ‘Hillbilly Baptism’ ! I was bound and determined to swim in the deep pool at the base of the falls regardless of how cold it was. I am amazed that I was also able to convince Tyler to join me ! John stayed out of the water since someone had to document the whole thing ! (that was his excuse anyway !)
After getting over the shock of the cold water submersion and drying off a bit, then getting back across to river left, I followed the route that Tyler had already found along a narrow rock ledge in order to reach the top of the next falls. These are actually quite large and worthy of a name as many do dive from the top here. There is even a very well built ladder anchored on the river left side of them to enable swimmers to get from the deep splash pool (which is actually at the top of the next falls which is Compression Falls) to the top of these very nice falls. We spent quite awhile enjoying this area as well. There is a very high cliff on the left side which has various perches that are also used for high diving. We would have to find a way around and down these if we were to continue our river left direction without having to swim and risk getting our packs and equipment wet.

John poses on the narrow ninja ledge along the route Tyler found for us to get around the next cliff obstacle in order to reach our next destination. This is the near vertical rock wall of the sharp L Turn the river makes just after Twisting Falls.

making our way across the rock wall of the L Turn to get over to where Tyler is. You can see in this picture the top of the next falls that lie in between Twisting and Compression falls as well as the top of Compression Falls and some of the river below them. The high cliff above Tyler is used to dive into the deep pool below the middle falls he is standing atop of.

Rock wall of the L Turn. Due to lower water levels we could make it across the narrow ledges at its base without getting our boots wet.

Here you can see John farther along on the highest part of the rock wall that make sup the L Turn. You can see the small crack-like route we would follow to get over it.

John Gnome posing the lower level of the cliff as he joins Tyler at the top of the middle falls between Twisting and Compression

Once I make it to where John and Tyler are at the top of the middle falls, i get this view looking back through the L turn

Looking off the top of the middle falls you can barely tell you are also seeing the top of Compression falls which is just below and is about 35 to 40 feet in vertical height.

There is a permanent rope ladder at these falls to aid swimmers in getting up them as most climb up the river left side of Compression Falls and swim over to this point to avoid climbing the very high and treacherous cliff above these falls

My view of john from the puckering perch on the high cliff beside these falls as he checks out the ladder area

John is able to stand on a narrow ledge close to the falls due to the lower water levels. These falls are about 15 feet in height at this time.

As I was standing on the cliff I kept feeling stuff hit my head. I looked up and saw the culprit high above me !!
We did a full exploration of that area and then got a report from Tyler who had already gone ahead (as usual) to not only the top of the high cliff but, also above it and beyond to find a possible route around it. He did mention that getting down its vertical front side may require the use of our handy rope which we were luckily packing on this trip. Tyler led the way and I brought up the rear following John. It was a rather steep climb up the backside of the cliff by way of a rough, rocky ravine obviously carved out by water during heavy rains. There is little signs of human travel as most come in by way of swimming across the pool from the top of Compression Falls and using the ladder and taking that way back down or diving of course. The top of the cliff is an impressive area and I enjoyed it immensely until the sketchy part getting down it !

Looking down at the splash pool of the middle falls which is just above Compression Falls from the highest point on the cliff. People actually dive from here and the other points below this !!! I would get to see it done before this trip was over !
After some investigation we did find a route we thought we could manage with a rope yet, it was beyond sketchy as there was only a very narrow ledge about 20 feet below us. If we missed it there would be a fall of at least 30+ more feet to the rock and very shallow water below. There was a small laurel growing on the side of the cliff that also allowed us to pull this off providing it held. Tyler figured out a way to rig the rope so that we could retrieve it from the bottom and John was the guinea pig who would be the first to try it. The only real danger in this operation would be losing your grip on the rope as we did not have any other climbing gear. We also waited until John was about halfway down and had his full weight on the rope to tell him that we had broken that rope two times the day before while using my truck to pull a tree down !

John keeping his body close to the cliff wall as he tried to find secure footing on a very narrow ledge. You can almost see how far down it is to the water if he falls although pics don`t show depth very well.

Using his knees and everything else he had to keep three points of contact while maneuvering through trees and laurels to get down to another ledge needed to get off the rope, John has a death grip on the rope. I am sure what we told him about stressing the rope to breaking point 3 times the day before was going through his head about now !

Now over half way down, John gets a perch where he can stop to get a visual on the ledge he is trying to get to. (the one at the green laurels down below him where you can see it drops off to vertical just inches beyond it ! There is a good 30+ foot drop off if he misses !)

Now that he has seen the destination, John continues with purpose and precision using the rope and the small trees to his advantage

John gives the all ok sign as he is almost standing on the very narrow ledge you can now see just below him. He will have to take it to his right without the rope to get off the cliff but, it does widen some just out of sight.

After I got most of the way down I stayed on the cliff to get some shots of Tyler as he came down the rope

That first step off the edge is always the hardest esp. when you are not harnessed to the rope and there is a little bit of air below you ! This descent was all dependent upon one`s ability to not lose grip on the rope !
John kept his grip and made it down to the tiny ledge below and I was the next to try it. It went smooth for me as well and soon I had a toe hold on the narrow ledge which actually once off rope became as wide as a sidewalk that led perfectly in the direction we needed to go to reach the trail at the top of Compression Falls. Tyler made it look easy as I watched him shimmy down the rope to the ledge and get our $10 rope back ! We could now see the middle falls that we were previously on top of. We hung out there taking pics of them and looking off the top of the much larger Compression Falls until we seen a group of people making their way up to where we were. They proceeded to free climb the outside and steepest part of the cliff we had just roped down where they did some impressive dives from various levels of the cliff.

Once I reached the small ledge, I got this pic of John to show just how narrow it was and the sheer drop just beyond it

That first section was the hardest since there was no good footing and you had to put all your weight on your hands and the rope until you could get below that ‘air’ where a foot hold could be had. Knowing if you slipped it was about 50 feet non stop to the bottom is what made it exciting !

A view of the route we took down around the cliff. Many climb up and around the point of this cliff just beyond where Tyler is but, they dive in the water to get back down. No one comes down the cliff, it`s just too dangerous.

Side view of the middle falls. Just in front of me is about where we would have landed had we fell off the rope !

Looking back at the falls from the top of Compression Falls. You can start to see the smoke in the air now as it was getting stronger.
I was able to capture the following images of these falls by using my slightly larger camera:
Continuing to follow the river left route, we took the well worn trail down from the top of Compression to its base and hung out there getting pics of the falls and the divers as they were now getting ready to dive off it to get back to where they started. we got a picture or two of that as well. This is a dangerous place and many have been injured or killed here. The name Compression actually comes from a kayaker who compressed his spine when taking his boat over the main falls. I have seen many do it without issue as well as many slide or jump off it and considering the large number of people that frequent here in the warmer months, I guess the number of injuries or deaths is actually low in comparison but, I always recommend great caution be exercised anytime you are around a waterfall.

As I am standing here at the tip top of Compression Falls on the river left side, I could see some approaching young people. I let out a loud ‘HAIRNT !’ call and the girl in the black bikini immediately responded with a yell and a thumbs up !!!

As I stated earlier, people climb to the top of Compression Falls and swim over to the ladder to climb to the top of the next (middle) falls but, some do climb the cliff and go right around the part we roped down as it can be done in ascent just not in descent. You will see this in pics to come,,

Looking down from the top of Compression Falls at the rocks on river right I am always fascinated by the square rock formations there and wonder how those are formed ‘naturally’ as it looks man made when I know it is not !

Here you can see how it is possible to climb up the cliff that we roped down and can see how difficult it would be to climb down without a rope !!
John managed to get some much better images of the cliff divers. The following series is from his collection:

Diver from the half way point. You can see another one on the highest part above him. (photo by John Forbes)

Tyler heading up the narrow trail that leads from the top of Compression Falls over and down to the bottom

Looking back across the narrow ledge that is the trail to the top of Compression Falls you can see how it would be easy for a ‘flip flop wearer ‘ to get into trouble here.

Following the trail down from the top of Compression Falls. After you get off the vertical cliffy part it does go up and around through this awesome rocky area.

I like this part of the trail down from Compression falls a lot. You actually have to go up to go down !

Once I got to the base of the falls on river left I joined John there to setup and take some pics with my larger camera.

Compression Falls with the young daredevils at the top for scale. The girl had obviously never been here or jumped from here before. It took her a long time to commit but, she finally did it. I am always nervous when witnessing this sort of thing esp after so many injuries and deaths have occurred here.
I took the following images with my slightly larger camera, while on river left side of Compression Falls:
It was now time to cross the river as our river left route was over and we needed to be on river right to not only pick up the trail down river that would lead us to complete our loop back at our vehicle but, also to give us access to the top of the rocks on the other side where more photo ops were awaiting us. This was not a hard task as it was a warm and dry day. when it is wet, the rocks here are usually very slimy green and slick making it more difficult to negotiate. We all got across easily and were soon sitting atop the large puckering perch on the other side right at the base of the falls. We hung out there for awhile getting what pics we could before it became late evening, meaning it was time to go.

I managed to get a few shots of the falls with my pocket cam as I made my way across the river to the other side (river right)

Isolate shot of the smaller plume on the far left side of Compression Falls. This is rare as it is usually one huge wall of water when the water levels are up.

Looking back I see John atop the river monster soaking in the magnificent views of the falls. I feel a gnome pose coming on,,,,,,

Compression Falls from almost river right. The smoke was getting thick in the gorge now and my throat was burning which was making me cough

Compression Falls. Lucky for us the young daredevils had already left so we were able to get pictures without people in them.
The following are the pics I took with my slightly larger camera while on the river right side of Compression Falls:
Following river right down the main trail I could not help but, to keep looking back at this awesome falls and thoughts of the days adventures were running through my head. Actually I was trying to not think of the insanely steep and long climb out of the gorge that was yet to come. It always kicks my butt and I was not looking forward to it this time either.
It took me awhile to complete the ascent and as always I was the last one to the top. We could see where the smoke was coming from once we reached that point. From there the going gets a little easier but, I was still moving slowly. Eventually I caught up with the others by the time we all reached the car.

Looking across the gorge directly at Buck Mountain we could see the thickest part of the smoke. We did confirm when got home that there was a forest fire there that was contained by that evening.
It had been another unbelievable day in Nature and another incredible first for Tyler. We had worked up an insatiable appetite worthy of a post hike grub out at Fatz restaurant on the way home. Life was definitely good on this day and we were thankful. Until next time,,,















































































































































































My name is 'RAT' and I love the mountains and waterfalls of the East TN. area where I live and I hope you enjoy this blog about my outdoor adventures.



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