South Harper Falls (NC) – 6-5-2015
After almost one month since my last mountain adventure, I finally was able to get out into the woods again with my friends Tommy ‘Bol’Dar’ Warden and John ‘The Gnome’ Forbes. This epic journey would be to show them one of my favorite North Carolina waterfalls, South Harper Falls. It is always exciting to see someones expression of seeing an awesome place for the first time and I was anxious to get there to witness it. It is not hard to find the trail head or the falls nor is it a long hike but, the name can be confusing as the map does not show the creek as South Harper Creek but, rather it shows Harper Creek. If you have been to North Harper Falls and Harper Falls you know that it is also called Harper Creek yet, it is two separate creeks ! They do come together just above Harper Falls so I guess that is how they decided to name them back then. Calling these falls South Harper Falls separates them from the other Harper falls but, both creeks do share the same Harper Creek name. To add to the confusion the trail is called Harper Creek Trail.
South Harper Falls (as seen from the cliffs above them)
It only takes about an hour or so to drive to the trail-head from Hairnt Quarters so we arrived just in time to see the morning fog lifting off the mountains.
Sunbeams shining down through the mountain fog along the road to South Harper Falls
Following the long gravel road it always seems farther every time I visit these falls but, eventually we made it to the parking area and began the 2 mile (or less) hike out the Harper Creek Trail. It is a very nice trail but, it does get a bit narrow as it goes as the forest growth is slowly encroaching faster than the trail maintainers can cut it. The mountain laurels were in full bloom so it really was not that bad and none of us ended up with any ticks despite being constantly in contact with thick growth. The first rest break would be after about a mile and a half where the trail comes to the top of some private property where it makes a turn. They farm Christmas trees here among other things and the valley view is rather nice.
Making our way along the Harper Creek Trail
Tommy and John in tight formation along the overgrown trail
Rhodo blooms were abundant and very beautiful along the entire trail
View of the valley farm from the trail. There was a tractor working at the time.
Not long after the farm land the trail eventually starts going downhill which is when you know you are almost to the falls. The trail intersects another trail just above the top of the falls. This trail is the old Mountains To Sea trail. We would go left on this trail and in a short ways you can find a spur trail off to the right that will place you at the base of the upper part of the falls and the top of the lower part. This is the best place to start and the only place to get close up pics of the upper half of these magnificent falls. The sun was a bit bright but clouds were starting to go by only, most were bypassing the sun so it was hard to get any good shots.
Looking down from the tip top of the falls
Top part of the falls as seen from their base
Base of top half of falls
Upper part of South Harper Falls
Base of the upper half of South Harper Falls
Upper part of South Harper Falls
Upper part of South Harper Falls
Upper part of South Harper Falls
At this point you can get a decent view looking down the lower part of the falls but, I must stress how dangerous it is here. The type of rock makes it unpredictably slick even on the dry areas and one slip here would not end well and I am sure it has happened more than once so please, be extremely careful here and do not venture too far down this slope and by all means if there are kids around keep a hold to them at all times !
John stands at the edge of the lower part of the falls while he takes pics of the upper part
In this shot you can see the overlook cliff in the top left of the picture . That is the only place where you can see all of the falls at one time.
Large Hawk flies over the cliffs above the falls
Looking up I can see the hawk and jet overhead
Me standing on the edge (Photo by John Forbes)
Looking down the lower part of the falls into the rocky canyon below. Standing here is very risky.
Looking down into the vortex at the back of the canyon at the bottom of the falls
Looking down the falls into the canyon below. If you slipped here life as you know it would be over.
It is amazing how the water has formed the cliffs around the falls and the colors are spectacular
John and Bol’Dar sitting about as far as you can go over the edge at the top of the lower half of the falls
Bol’Dar sits on the brink of the lower part of the falls
John stands in a puckering perch above the lower part of the falls with the canyon and its vortex below
As far over the edge as I dared to go
I love the color of these rock formations
On my first trip to these falls I climbed that cliff from left to right from the base of the falls to get the big picture of the falls as I did not know there was an actual trail up there ! It was very sketchy !
More of the cliffs with the overlook up top
Looking up at the overlook. We wold be up there soon,,,
Cliff leading up to the overlook. Still hard to believe I climbed up that from the bottom !
We hung out here for quite awhile, mainly waiting on some clouds to come over but, soon it was time to move on to another aspect of the falls. I decided that rather than continue down to the bottom of the falls where there is a HUGE CANYON to explore that it would be best if we took the trail that leads up to the high cliffs above the falls to get get the only view of the entire falls before any rain storms blew up. This requires going back up to the trail intersection at the top of the falls and going the other way which crosses the creek to the other side. Once across there is a trail there, the old MST trail which goes to the left and switches back several times before reaching the top of the mountain where the side trail down to the cliffs can be found but, first I would go to the right which is private property just far enough to see another nice set of waterfalls there and the old mill wheel that is cabled off to a tree near them.
Another view looking down from the very top of the falls as we go back to the trail intersection where we started and go the other way on the old MTS trail
Lower part of the falls located on private land just upstream from South Harper Falls
Old mill wheel assembly that used to be at the edge of the water but now sits higher on the bank and is cabled off to a tree
Close up of part of the old mill wheel cog assembly
I must assume there was a mill setup on this creek at this location. I can only imagine how much work this contraption has done.
Private falls. Looks like a nice place for an old mill
John giving some scale to the size of the old mill wheel
Really nice falls on the private land
Falls on the private land. We did not explore them out of respect for the property owner
These falls were lovely with the rhodo blooms
After we checked all that out we took the trail to the top and found the side trail down to the cliffs. The old gulley trail is still there but, now there is a new one that is much easier if you look for it. We soon found ourselves at the top of the cliffs and looking down at the entire falls. It is then and only then that you can see them in their entirety and grasp the reality of just how large these falls really are. The look on Bol’Dar and John`s faces was priceless to say the least.
Monotropa uniflora, also known as the ghost plant, Indian pipe, or corpse plant. We found several of these on the way up to the cliffs
Monotropa uniflora, also known as the ghost plant, Indian pipe, or corpse plant found along the trail to the cliffs
South Harper Falls as seen in its entirety from the overlook cliffs
Zoomed shot of South Harper Falls from the overlook
Me sitting on the edge of the cliff overlook getting shots of the entire South Harper Falls (Photo by John Forbes)
Closer zoom of South Harper Falls from the overlook
South Harper Falls
South Harper Falls
South Harper Falls
South Harper Falls
Zoomed shot of South Harper Falls
The view from the cliffs is amazing. You can even see Grandfather Mountain off in the distance as it seems eye level to you from that vantage point. We spent quite a bit of time there enjoying the view of the falls and the surrounding mountains.
John sits on the edge of the overlook taking pics of South Harper Falls
Bol’Dar getting some shots of the falls from the overlook cliff, hundreds of feet above South Harper Falls
Zoomed shot of South Harper Falls
View of South Harper Falls as seen from the overlook
Zoomed shot of South Harper Falls
View of Grandfather Mountain from the overlook
Zooming closer on the view of Grandfather Mountain as seen from the overlook
Closer zoom of Grandfather Mountain as seen from the overlook
Getting some pics from the overlook. That is Persimmon Ridge in the distance behind me which is a trail I plan to hike in the near future
The first time I visited these falls I climbed up to the cliffs from the base of the falls on a trail-less rock spine ridge as I was unaware of any other way to the top. It was harrowing and very sketchy but, was the only way I could get the view of the entire falls that I wanted so desperately. Climbing around underneath the overlook cliffs was quite an adventure but, was very dangerous as there is not much to hold on to and some of the rocks are rounded like big dinosaur eggs and hard to get traction on. If not for the small pothole marks on them I could not have done it. I was able to make my way across them and ended up sitting just below the base of the overlook on a narrow ledge to get a view of the falls. Going back down was even harder as gravity would then be against me. One slip and there would be no recovery and you would find yourself at the bottom of the gorge in a hurry ! This is the one rock that was the hardest to climb around. It was not until I returned the second time that I knew about the easier and real trail to the cliffs !
South Harper Falls
South Harper Falls
John does the Hillbilly Gnome pose on the edge of the overlook cliff !
Bol’Dar tries his hand at Hillbilly Gnome posing on the overlook !
Me striking the Hillbilly Gnome pose on the edge of the overlook high above South Harper Falls !
Snake skin found on the overlook cliff
Large Hawk flying overhead as I looked towards Grandfather Mountain
Close up of the Hawk. You can see it is missing a few feathers
These rhodos were in full bloom near the edge of the cliff
Group shot from the overlook above South Harper Falls
It started to sprinkle some and the clouds were increasing so I made a good call to go to the cliffs first but, soon enough we had to continue on as it was getting late afternoon already. I did take the time to continue following the old MST trail to show them where it comes out on the new MST trail about quarter mile or more up the hill before going back down to the top of the falls. The old MST trail continues following the creek and gorge out for a few miles to where it comes out at the other branch of Harper Creek just above Harper Falls where it joins the new MST/ Harper Creek Trail but, you go off it to go down the near vertical descent to reach the creek and base of the falls. This is where the rock canyon is found. We spent a long time making our way to the back end and what I call the ‘vortex’ of the canyon at the base of the falls.
This pic displays the steepness of the descent down to the base of the falls (Photo by John Forbes)
Bol’Dar making his way down the steep descent to reach the base of the falls
When I reached the creek I could not help but look over and up at the rock spine ridge that I climbed on my first visit here which took me up a very risky route to the overlook high above
First view of the rocky canyon at the base of the falls
Bol’Dar and me starting into the canyon (Photo by John Forbes)
I begin my assault into the canyon (Photo by John Forbes)
Bol’Dar makes his way into the canyon (Photo by John Forbes)
I take time to do the Hillbilly Gnome pose as Bol’Dar and I make our way into the canyon (Photo by John Forbes)
Hillbilly Book Ends ! (Photo by John Forbes)
A RAT and his canyon !!
The creek makes a hard left at the base forming an L and it is solid vertical rock on both sides filled with car and truck sized boulders that have fallen down there over the years and it is a job to climb over them to reach the butt end of this rocky canyon yet it is well worth it. It may not look like very far or that the rocks and boulders are very large but, as you will see in the next few dozen picture, it really is much larger than it seems and the distance between the rocks and their size does deceive you until you scramble across them. We would spend the rest of our day hanging out in this area which would include Hillbilly Baptisms at the base of the falls and a swim in what I call the Hillbilly Rock Quarry which is a deep square hole carved in the rock there.
John was first to begin making his way into the deep rock canyon. Although it looks short and easy as if one could easily rock hop all the way quickly to the butt end, he quickly learned this was a deception as the boulders are big as trucks and have much distance between them as well as more waterfalls and large pools of water hiding behind them !
John making his way into the canyon
Bol’Dar starts his journey into the canyon, and finds out just getting started is difficult as you have to scale around a large pool of water )not seen in this picture) by clinging to the 45 degree angled sides just to reach the first boulders ! (if you wish to not get your feet wet that is)
John finally gets over to the larger rock. The gap looks small from here, but as the next picture will show, it is much larger than it appears !
You can now see how much larger the crossing is as you get closer to it !!
Proud of his accomplishment, John immediately strikes a Gnome atop the huge rock !
Once the first set of boulder obstacles is negotiated, this nice small set of falls appears ! There is a very large pool hiding just out of sight above it as you will see in coming pics as the canyon stretches out and slowly reveals itself
Part of the large pool and what I call the Hillbilly Rock Quarry that is just above the small falls seen in the last picture
Deep pool and steep sides of the rock canyon. Last time I was here I swore I would come back and swim in this pool.
The rest of the large pool above the small falls and still a lot of canyon to go
Looking into the canyon you can see the Nature`s artistry in the rock colors on the steep sides
Finally getting a view of the lower part of the falls
John changed into his water shoes as he realized it would be much easier to explore the gorge by walking in the water as needed !
John stretching his legs about as far as they will go to get across the next gap which would not look like much if he was not there to give it the scale
After completing that leg of the journey, another Gnome pose is celebrated !
John posing atop a huge rock about halfway into the canyon at the base of the falls
After negotiating a couple more large gaps, John contorts his body to scale around the next large rock
John taking in the canyon
Now atop one of the largest rocks in the canyon, John celebrates once more with a Gnome pose !
John busy taking pics from deep within the realm of the canyon
John begins to look much smaller as the canyon consumes him as he gets closer to the butt end (vortex)
Looking up at the falls as I begin my journey into the canyon
As I catch up with John, you can start to see just how large these apartment sized rocks really are
John looking small inside the gorge yet is very happy to be here ! He is sizing up the angled falls and how he will climb them
If you were to fall from the overlook cliffs we were on earlier, you would land about where John is standing in this picture. You can see how vertical this side of the canyon is. The cliff overlook is several hundred feet above John.
Continuing towards the butt end / vortex of the rock canyon
Another one of my views of the falls as I make my way farther into the canyon
Somehow I knew John would be climbing up there ! I do NOT advise trying this unless you are an experienced rock climber.
John takes a break as he stares up at the falls in awe
John giving some scale to what previously looked like a small trickle of water. This water was flowing very forcefully as I was unable to hold myself in it when I would later attempt a Hillbilly Baptism there. Note: I call that rock the ‘clam rock’
John`s view from his puckering perch on the falls (Photo by John Forbes)
Looking back I get a good view of the Hillbilly Rock Quarry and the Hillbilly diving board
John finally makes it to the top of the rock ledge he was climbing
John high on a ledge of the South Harper Falls
Bol’Dar joins us deep into the rock canyon
The canyon is a unique place and I love climbing around in it. If you can make your way to the butt end of it and stand in the vortex you can see the small lagoon there that has its own little waterfall that spurs off the main falls. There is a sand beach there and it is just an awesome place. I recalled my first visit there with my friend Dave Aldridge where I somehow managed to get all the way there and back without getting my feet wet which is a hard feat in itself. On this trip I planned on getting wet anyway so it made it much easier !
Climbing higher on the ledge
John posing from a puckering perch high above the floor of the canyon
John experienced so much excitement in such a short time that he had to take a short nap
Getting my first view of the vortex,,,,,, the butt end of this majestic rocky canyon
I am now about halfway into the canyon and directly across from the main part of the falls. You can not see the upper half of the falls from anywhere in the canyon
View of the falls
Me doing the Hillbilly Gnome pose at the base of South Harper Falls (Photo by John Forbes)
I am getting in position to do the days first Hillbilly Baptism (Photo by John Forbes)
RAT`s Hillbilly Baptism at South Harper Falls (Photo by John Forbes)
Me cooling off in the falls (Photo by John Forbes)
View of the falls
Looking up at the falls
Bol’Dar stops to take in the falls while down in the canyon. In this shot you can see the tiny falls to the far left that drop into the small lagoon that resides in the vortex of the canyon at its butt end
I look small among the large boulders of the canyon (Photo by John Forbes)
Lower half of South Harper Falls
South Harper Falls
Looking down into the canyon floor I realized that all the rocks there came from high above over time. And that piece of cut firewood as well,,,,
Looking down at the hillbilly rock quarry from my perch high above the canyon floor I was still trying to imagine how high the water level must have been to deposit that piece of firewood on top of those boulders
Getting a better view of the lagoon at the butt end of the canyon
This enormous rock is simply sitting there, wedged against the other larger rock and the water flows under it. I would not climb around on it as that would be a good way to get trapped or crushed by it. I can not imagine being rescued out of this canyon.
Looking back out of the canyon at about the halfway point
Unique view of the falls
John is now part mountain goat as he has climbed quite a ways up the steeper side of the canyon to get some unique shots of the falls and canyon floor while Bol’Dar simply enjoys the moment
Finally, I have almost made it to the butt end of the canyon !
Staring up from the vortex of the canyon
Looking up at the far left hand side of the falls below the ledge where John had climbed up to previously
After a lot of work I was finally seeing the butt end of the canyon
Looking back at the falls
Looking out of the canyon from the butt end
Standing in the lagoon at the butt end of the canyon I can see Bol’Dar and John getting pics of the falls
Standing behind the little falls that flow into the lagoon at the butt end of the canyon
Looking up from the butt end I could still remember when I climbed up the top spine of that on my first trip here to reach the overlook high above
Looking up at the vortex from the butt end of the canyon
Although I had been to the butt end of the canyon before, we spent a lot of time on this trip and every square inch was thoroughly explored and enjoyed. I was the first to lay down in the falls. It felt really good and soon after we all ended up jumping into the deep pool over from it for a nice swim before we made our way out of the deep crevice in the earth to begin the arduous climb back up to the trail so that we could make our way back to the vehicle.
Another view of the falls on my way out of the canyon.
John poses after a dive and swim in the Hillbilly Rock Quarry
Bol’Dar posing after his dive and swim in the Hillbilly Rock Quarry
Bol’Dar sits on the Hillbilly Springboard taking pics of me while I am swimming in the Hillbilly Rock Quarry (Photo by John Forbes)
Rat taking a swim in the Hillbilly Rock Quarry (Photo by John Forbes)
John climbing around the huge boulder to take his turn at a Hillbilly Baptism
John enjoying the force of the water as it flows freely over him
John giving the peace out Ooh Rah sign as he does his Hillbilly Baptism at the lower half of South Harper Falls
A very happy, refreshed and elated John Forbes
After the Hillbilly Baptism, John strikes a very triumphant Gnome pose
There is some very colorful fungus growing in the canyon
John said he was warming himself like a lizard after being in the cold water but, I think he may of been hoping for a centerfold shot in the latest edition of Waterfall World magazine !
Looking back at the falls as we make our way out of the canyon
Some last shots of the falls and the canyon
John plays Hillbilly Rock Rodeo
After John rode the rock, it was now tame enough for me to ride ! (Photo by John Forbes)
Group shot from the base of the falls
South Harper Falls
I had to climb over this rock to get out of the canyon (Photo by John Forbes)
Me trying to break a wild rock stallion on the way out of the canyon (Photo by John Forbes)
Just as we were about to climb out of the gorge, the sun came out and made the canyon walls glow with color !
One of the last shots I took with my larger camera
The falls and canyon come to life in the setting sun
I lover the color of the canyon in the setting sun
South Harper Falls
Sun on the canyon walls at the falls
A last look back into the canyon (Photo by John Forbes)
My last view of the canyon before the climb out
As we were putting our boots back on and preparing ourselves for the climb out, we suddenly heard a WooooooooHoooo! being yelled loudly from the cliff overlook high above us ! We promptly yelled back and I got a few zoomed pics to see who or what was up there ! As we got to the top of the hill I cold look over and see the group of boys had a bright red hammock tied between the two pines trees along the edge of the cliff up there ! It seemed as if they were going to be camping there for the night. it would be a full moon night so I can only imagine how nice that would be !
If you look at the top left of this shot, you can see the overlook cliff (where the highest lone pine tree is sticking up at)
Zooming in I could see the boys on the overlook cliff checking us out ! I am sure we looked like ants to them from up there !
Super zoom of the kids on the cliff high above us
There is really no trail on this insanely steep hill but, rather a maze of multiple paths and skid marks you follow to get back up to the trail the best way you can. I was happy to be back on a real trail and back up the hill from the top of the falls. After that it is more or less level all the way back to the car.
Making our way up the rooty, washed out ascent back to the trail above
Finally back to the trail and it too is steep (Photo by John Forbes)
A cool looking purple rock we found once back on the Harper Creek Trail
Hiking back through a sea of Rhodo blooms on the Harper Creek Trail
Peak time for rhodo blooms it seems
Small yellow fungus along the trail
Once we got back to Johnson City we got to witness this phenomenal sunset beaming up from the clouds:
Unusual sunset in Johnson City
Unusual sunset in Johnson City on our way home
It had been an awesome day at an incredible place that is one of my favorite NC waterfalls complete with cliffs and rocky canyons. I can not wait for the next adventure. Until then,,,,
My name is 'RAT' and I love the mountains and waterfalls of the East TN. area where I live and I hope you enjoy this blog about my outdoor adventures.
Leave a Comment